Drafting Your Patterns
Understanding the Bara Proportion System
It is not known when this system first came to be in use, but by the end of the 16th century, when it was published in a tailor’s manual from Spain, dated 1589, it was the standard for drafting clothing patterns. It is a system based on proportion. Those proportions are designed to allow a pattern to be drafted for a wide variety of body types while only requiring the tailor to memorize a single cut for any one garment. For a complete method of drafting with the Bara System, You can purchase and download our book The Modern Maker Vol. 2: Pattern Manual 1580-1640. In it, you will find instructions for drafting men’s and women’s patterns for 16th and 17th century styles as well as a variety of other styles including cloaks, coats, skirts, bodices, breeches and jackets.
This video is a demonstration of the Bara System in action. You only draw one set of lines. The seam allowances are included in the proportions. It is important to know that the seam allowance is not standard. It changes depending on the size of the individual. This is just a plain demonstration, no real explanation, but you can see with the use of the measuring tapes, the pattern takes shape. Different tapes are used for different base measures. The length is based on the height of the individual, the upper body widths are governed by a tape made from the chest measurement and the waist area is, of course, regulated by the waist tape.
Making the Bara Tape Measures
Once you have your measurement, you will need to make your tape measures. The full set for any individual consists of four main tapes. The Length tape, which is based on half the total height. The Chest/Bust tape, which is made from the chest/bust measurement, the Waist tape and Hip tape. With these four tapes, you can draft any pattern that is notated in the Bara System.
The Bara System in Action: 16th Century “Venetians”
One of the more popular styles of historical breeches among modern users of historical clothing is the “Venetians” style. Full at the waist but tapered to the knee. They can be drafted in just a few short minutes with the Bara System!
The Bara System in Action: A Simple Wrap Skirt
One of the simplest lower body garments we can make is a skirt. This half-circle skirt has its origins deep in history, but here, we make a short, fun modern version.
