A Young Woman’s Jerkin

This week, I've chosen to study a pattern that comes from Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620 by Janet Arnold. In the book, it is listed as a "Youth's Jerkin" But the proportions and the interior structure with so many bones as well as the styling of the hanging sleeve and details lead me to believe that it is for a young woman and not for a boy (it is in the menswear portion of the book).

The construction that she explains in the book is very interesting to me. There are some details which I definitely need to incorporate into my next female-bodied garment.

First, there are extra layers of linen at the sleeve cap which stiffen the area, acting like an early version of a sleeve-header. I'm particularly excited about this because I think it can give a sleeve a more interesting drape when used.

Second, the garment laces up the front with buttons that hide the lacing a bit.

The trim is quite simple, and if you're wondering where I take my standard trim style from, it is from this extant garment.

Of course, the shawl collar is one of the more interesting elements of this piece and I love the way it hangs and looks. I imagine it would lend itself well to wearing a ruff.

The proportions I have used in this draft are based on those of my dress form which I made myself. Approximate C-cup, middle-range shoulder measure, average back width. The measurements are intended to go over a body that is wearing stays, so keep that in mind, should you choose to use this pattern. If you have a large cup size, you may need to use a smaller shoulder length proportion. The original draft was made with approximately 1 1/2 dedos of ease for the drafting block which gives 3 dedos of ease total.

If you haven't already, I highly recommend reading through ALL of Arnold's notes on the diagram. There is SO much useful information that I think you will surprise yourself with how much you might be leaving out.

I hope you enjoy this little deviation from the pattern manuals.

Later this week, I will upload the final episode of The Modern Maker Workroom Season 3.

I can't wait to be done with the season and move onto the next!

Happy stitching!