Regency Coat Pattern Development

These aren’t the final proportions, but I’m getting much closer than I have so far.

I think I may finally have found the drafting method for a regency coat that creates the correct shape.

I analyzed the pattern shape from Queen and Lapsley, 1809 and found that it was proportionate to itself in ways that are totally predictable when the "system of thirds" is used.

Here is a photo of my digital cutting table as I'm working on it...you can see it has been going on for weeks!

A screen shot of my digital cutting table and all the various attempts I have made at drafting this coat pattern.

I can't wait until I have time to test it!

I believe this draft has no seam allowances, but I haven't had the time to fully check yet.

I have recently made a comparison draft of the original diagram, a coat drafted in my size, and a coat drafted in a 40R size. I can see some differences between my shapes and the original and there is reason for it. In the PDF of the original 1809 booklet, someone has drawn in “corrected” lines over the diagram and I have used those shapes. This is exactly what I would do if I found out (the hard way) that the original diagram was flawed or not balanced correctly. In fact, I have done this exact thing in other books with diagram issues. The changes that were made are sensible as they correct one of the things that I find so distressing about the shape — the angle of the shoulder. I have always found it far too sloped to fit well. I haven’t tested it yet though, so I’m not making any more assumptions until I can put it on my body and SEE what the heck is supposed to be happening.

Green is the original draft from the booklet. Red is the 40R size and Blue is the 46R size.

PS: My front skirt is a little long. It wouldn't stitch up to the back properly...but I have to go work now and can't play with it any more!

I'm so. very. excited. I hope to have time to make a mockup this weekend after all the other, more pressing studio work.