Jackets and Waistcoats from the 16th to 21st Century

Cottage Core Waistcoat/Vest — Proportionate Draft — 21st Century

Man’s Doublet: 1580/90

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Man’s Doublet From an Anonymous 1590s manual

This manual was brought to my attention by Francisco Martinez Botella

Man’s Doublet: 1600-1610

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Woman’s Gored Waistcoat ca. 1600

Woman’s Doublet/Jacket with Round skirts 1600-1640

Clerical Soutane ca. 1600

Man’s Doublet: 1620s

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Man’s Jacket (to go over a doublet)

Man’s Waistcoat ca. 1810-1816
This short waistcoat comes to just below the natural waist level. When worn with a cutaway tailcoat of the same period, it should show below the waist of the tailcoat by about 1-1 1/2”

The back is unlined, so there is a hem allowance of 3/4” at the bottom which is rolled and finished at 3/8” The lacing panel is sewn right onto the back with top stitching and eyelet holes. Use a French Seam for Center back and encase seam allowances for the side and shoulder into the front lining. The collar should be quite stiff though the pad stitching, if used shouldn’t shape the collar, but keep it very stiff and flat.

Man’s Sport Coat-2019

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This sport coat body was designed by Mathew Gnagy. It was meant to employ the most extreme use of ironwork to form and shape the coat. There is no front dart. It has patch pockets. It is meant to have around 4-5 inches (10-12.5cm) of ease through the chest and about 3-4 inches(7.5-10cm) of ease through the waist. The sleeve cap is intentionally a bit shallow to allow for more freedom of movement for the wearer. For an easier fit, or if it will be worn over a waistcoat or sweater, use a chest tape that is 1 inch(2.5cm) larger than the chest of the recipient. Collar is not shown as many varieties can be used.